Sleeves complete the appearance of a bodice while also
serving a functional and fashionable purpose for a garment. Learn two different
methods for sewing sleeves.
A Quick Guide to Sewing Sleeves
Sewing sleeves necessitates a knowledge of pattern pieces as
well as the ability to sew in a circular pattern. A standard sleeve covers the
shoulder and rests flat against the arm. Depending on the outfit, you can
lengthen the sleeve to fit the design of the garment.
Mastering the curved seam line can be difficult for new
sewers; however, with the right tools and tips, you can practice adding sleeves
to your clothing. There are two methods for sewing sleeves into a garment:
set-in and flat. Sewing sleeves set-in is a simpler method of adding sleeves to
a garment than sewing flat, which requires a more complex sewing technique.
Important Sleeve Sewing Terminology
Knowing the sleeve construction terminology will help you
understand how to use your pattern pieces. When sewing a sleeve for the first
time, keep the following terms in mind:
1. Grain line: The grain line is the thread that runs along
the material and is used to guide the cut of a fabric piece. These lines run
parallel to the fabric's edge.
2. Notches: Notches are the small triangles on your pattern
pieces. The sleeve cap, as well as the front and back of the sleeve, are
represented by these symbols. The shoulder seam is represented by the single
notch at the top of the sleeve, while the notches on the side represent the front
and back of the sleeve.
3. Pattern piece: A pattern piece is a thin sheet of paper
that shows how a garment is made. For cutting and sewing your sleeves, use your
sleeve pattern pieces as a guide.
4. Sleeve cap: Also known as the sleeve head, the sleeve cap
is the top portion of the shoulder covering. The sleeve cap is slightly arched
and bends to shape the natural bend of the upper arm.
5. Sleeve cap ease: Use extra fabric around the shoulder to
ease the sleeve into the armhole when using set-in sleeves. As a result, the
sleeve cap is larger than the armhole because the excess fabric forms a shape
around the shoulder. This larger measurement is the ease of the sleeve cap.
How to Sew Sleeves Set-In
Set-in sleeves are a type of arm covering that is sewn
separately from the bodice of the garment. After sewing the sleeves and bodice
together, the sleeves are attached (or set) into the garment. When working with
woven fabrics or sewing sleeves into a dress, this method is ideal. To sew
set-in sleeves, follow the instructions below:
1. Trim the fabric. Cut the fabric for your sleeves along
the grain using the pattern piece as a guide. For sleeve patterns, there are
two notches: one for the front of the sleeve and two for the back of the
sleeve. Cut out the notches with care, as you will use them to align the sleeve
to the armhole.
2. Create the sleeve. Pin the right sides of the fabric
together, lining up the underarms and placing pins every few inches along the
raw edges of the fabric. Sew the sleeves together with a 5/8-inch seam
allowance. Then, with the sleeve cap in place, sew three rows of a basting
stitch, leaving long thread tails. The first row should be 1/4 inches long, the
second 1/2 inches long, and the third 3/4 inches long. The long thread seam and
three rows of stitches will make it easier to control the easing stitches as
you insert the sleeve.
3. Finish the sleeve. The type of hemline you should sew for
your sleeve will be specified in the pattern instructions. However, you can
customize the length of your sleeves and the design of your hemline to your
liking. You can attach the sleeve to the garment after sewing the sleeve
hemline.
4. Attach the sleeves to the bodice with pins. Pin the right
side of the sleeve fabric to the right side of the bodice fabric, matching the
armholes. One pin should be placed in the center of the sleeve cap, leaving the
sides unpinned.
5. Remove the thread tails. Gather the sleeve fabric by
gently pulling the thread tails from the three basting stitches. The rest of the
sleeve cap can now be pinned in place. As you pin the sleeves, the notches and
underarms should line up with the side seam.
6. Sew the sleeves to the body of the garment. Set your
sewing machine to straight stitch and leave a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Sew the
sleeves to the garment, starting at the underarm seam and removing the pins as
you go. Take your time as you glide the fabric under the needle, turning it
gradually to create a curved seam line.
How to Sew Sleeves Flat
Because this strategy necessitates sewing the bodice and
sleeves together, sewing flat sleeves can be more difficult than sewing set-in
sleeves. When working with thick materials, such as knit fabrics, the flat
method comes in handy. Consider the following steps for adding flat sleeves to
a garment:
1. Trim the fabric. To make the sleeve pieces, use the
sewing pattern as a guide and cut the fabric along the grain.
2. Finish the shoulder seams. Align your bodice's shoulder
seams by bringing the right sides of the fabric together. Sew the shoulder
seams with a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance, pinning the fabric
in place. The rest of the bodice should be left unstitched.
3. Line your bodice and sleeves. Place your bodice and
sleeves flat on a surface. Start pinning from the top of the shoulder, matching
the right side of the sleeve fabric with the right side of the garment fabric.
Using the center of the shoulder as a guide will ensure that the armhole and
sleeve are evenly aligned.
4. Sew the sleeves to the body of the garment. Set your
sewing machine to straight stitch and leave a 1/2 inch seam allowance. Sew the
sleeves to the garment starting at the underarm. Take your time gliding the
fabric under the needle, turning it as you go to create a curved seam line.
5. Complete the garment's construction. Turn your garment
inside out and line the bodice edges. Pin along the bodice's sides to keep the
garment in place. Finish sewing the bottom edge sleeve seam and the bodice
sides with a 1/2-inch seam allowance.